Showing posts with label WFP. Show all posts
Showing posts with label WFP. Show all posts

Monday, November 06, 2023

The South Sudanese storyteller Malish James: This is what life is really like for refugees

Article at World Food Programme (WFP) website
Dated 18 June 2021 - here is a copy in full:

The South Sudanese storyteller: This is what life is really like for refugees

Most of what we know about conflict we see on TV and in movies. Malish James, who has hopped from refugee camp to refugee camp since fleeing South Sudan as a child, knows what it’s like first hand. Now he’s telling his story to the world

Malish. Photo: WFP/Hugh Rutherford

On the evening of 6 January 2000, my uncle Christopher Luke took me from my mother. I was only 11 years old. My mother walked with us a little of the way until we came to the River Luku where she said goodbye. She hugged me and through her tears told me, “My son, go. You will always remain in my heart. We will meet again in the nearest future.”


We left her standing just near the bridge. After walking a few hundred metres I turned to look behind us and she was still looking after us. Our eyes met and she waved to me. 


We had been living in Ataki refugee camp in the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC). My family fled from the Sudanese county of Maridi when I was only four years old because of war.


I can remember very little of that journey. I remember my parents struggling to carry their luggage and the children. I was on my father's shoulders. I remember my father carrying me under a big tree and cutting a vine called alanga in the local language. 


He held me so I could drink some juice dripping out of the cut in the alanga. I remember walking through a thick forest and being scared at night, hearing the sounds of wild animals making noises just very near in the forest.

Malish in 2013 (Malish James)

We were picked up by UN officials on the border with DRC and they took us to Ataki refugee camp. At first life was hard. My mother had to grind maize on a stone for us to have a meal every day. 


That was the only food we had along with beans and cooking oil. At first there was no school for us children but after some time they opened. I caught a serious sickness that almost killed me. My mother took me to the native doctor who cut my body with a razor blade. The treatment worked and I got better.


Even when we lived in DRC we did not completely escape the conflict. The SPLA (South Sudan People’s Defences Forces) would come over the border into the Congo looking for soldiers who had deserted. We would get warnings and go and sleep in the bush. But one time we were sitting around the fire and soldiers came arrived. We were scared. They took all the adult men and caned them and shouted at them, asking if they were soldiers.


I can remember many nice times I had with my mother when I was growing up. My mother loved me so much. She would tease us children. One day she had slaughtered a chicken and we were looking forward to eating it. But she told us that she had put chilli in the sauce. You don’t give chilli to children! And she said she wanted to see who was going to eat chicken today. We were cross. I was in a bad mood. But then she went inside and got us our chicken sauce without chilli. She was just joking with us.


It was crushing when she bade us goodbye.


There were five of us who walked from the Congo to Uganda: my elder sister Magdelina and her baby, a lady called Linda, my uncle Christopher Luke and me. We walked for five days. On the first day we didn’t walk far because it was late in the evening when we started the journey. But on the second day we walked from five in the morning until eight at night. We followed a dirt road through a landscape of tall grass with few trees. My uncle and Linda had some shoes but my sister and I were barefoot. We scrambled through the shade. 


That night we got some rest at a church by the roadside. On the third day I was unable to walk. My feet were all swollen and very painful. I was a child and I wanted to go back to my mother but it was already too far to go back. 


I was too heavy to be carried. My uncle had to give me a stick to walk with. When I tried to walk with it, it was so painful. But I got used to it. We walked through the heat of the day until the evening when it was very cold. We got some rest at someone's home by the road but we only had bed sheets to keep us warm and we were covered in mosquito bites. Later, after we had reached Uganda, I fell ill with malaria. On the fourth day I felt a bit better but my leg was still painful after the long distance we had covered.

Former rebel child soldiers board a lorry to take them to a Unicef-funded rehabilitation centre after they were demobilised from the military in Sudan’s Bahr el-Ghazal region in 2001. Photo: AFP/Getty

My uncle knew how far we had to walk but he tricked us, telling us that the place is nearby and pointing out some distant trees, saying that just behind that tree we would reach our destination. We would walk a long way and still we would not get there. But with his encouragement we managed to reach Camp Rhino in Arua District in Uganda six days later on 12 January 2000.


My uncle had already been living there for a year with my elder brother Victor Friday before he came to get me. I met up with my brother again at my uncle’s home in Rhino Camp. I was very happy to greet Victor again. We spent one month resting and then we walked for a day to reach the UNHCR base office in Arua town. 


Here we were registered as refugees and a UNHCR truck took us back to the camp. Then my uncle registered me at a primary school. He advised me to study hard so that I could help our mother in the future. That is why he had taken the chance of taking my elder brother and I with him to Uganda. He would tell me: “You study hard to become a great person in future. I know you are bright in school do not let yourself down.” His father was a doctor in South Sudan and he knew education could take you to a better place.

South Sudanese families accepted as refugees in Uganda shelter in the shade of a tree at the Ochaya Rhino refugee camp in Arua District. Photo: AFP/Getty


In Rhino Camp we lived in a mud brick house thatched with grass that my uncle had built. Our home was very basic. The UNHCR gave us cups and plates and a battered black saucepan. We had papyrus mats to sleep on and blankets to cover us. The World Food Programme gave us basic foodstuffs like maize, sorghum or millet, cooking oil and salt. We planted beans and white peas and my brother and I gardened together after school and at the weekends, planting and hoeing. In the market we bought ingenze, small silver fish which were sold in heaps. These taste good smashed and mixed with dry okra or pumpkin.


The main differences were that in the Congo the land was fertile. A little garden produced a lot and food was better. By the time I left most people were self-sufficient and did not need food from aid agencies. But in Uganda it was different. Here the land was not as fertile and people depended on food from the WFP. 


But here the schools were much better. I was in grade 2 of primary school and my brother who was already 14 was in grade 3. I had missed my brother and it was good to meet him again and my uncle looked after us. He did casual labour for the Ugandan community and around the base camp and earned enough money to buy us some soap, a little extra food and our school uniform.

Refugees share a meal at Ochaya Rhino camp. Photo: AFP/Getty


Eight months later a letter came from DRC to say our mother was seriously sick. My elder sister decided to go back to the Congo to take care of her. Some of my uncles from Sudan came to the Congo and took my mother, my elder sister and my other brother and sister back to Sudan.


At the end of August, as I came back from school very hungry and ready for something to eat, my uncle called me to him and read me a letter telling us that my mother had died in Sudan. I felt very sorry and sad with deep sorrow. I screamed and rolled on the ground. All the neighbours ran to see what had happened to me. When they realised that I had lost my mother they joined me in crying. The neighbours helped to hold a funeral and held prayers. After three days I started a new life of suffering – but that is another story. 


One day Uncle Christopher said he wanted to go to Juba in search of money to pay our school fees. Peace in 2005 meant that it was possible to go back to South Sudan. Most refugees had not yet been officially repatriated but many went back to look for work as there were many opportunities in the new country. We all agreed.


A few months later an incident happened in Juba. An ammunition store busted in the air and the explosion killed many people. My uncle disappeared completely. His body was not found. I received the news in class from a student who arrived at the school late one morning. 


I went home feeling hopeless and cried all day. I asked myself, “What is going on with our family? Both our father and our mother are gone and now our uncle. What is the matter with our family?” I just kept on asking myself such questions all day. But I got no answer. 


It took two weeks but our friends and neighbours contributed and we organised a funeral for my uncle. Then I began a new chapter of my life.


In May 2016 the vice president Riek Machar returned to Juba and was given the position of first vice president. 


On 7 July 2016 I gave a lift to a customer. We drove past the state house. They call it J1. A huge number of soldiers were standing by the roadside. On the right hand side they were in plain green uniforms and on the left side they were in a mixed coloured army uniform. The soldiers were fully armed with tanks around and heavy munitions. As we passed they didn’t say anything.

First vice president of South Sudan and former rebel leader Riek Machar and president Salva Kiir at a photoshoot in 2016 for members of the new cabinet of the Transitional Government. Photo: AFP/Getty


On my way back, after I had dropped off the customer, I asked myself, “What is happening with the state house?” And I couldn’t find an answer. When I went to pass J1 on the way back I was stopped and told to take another way. Then I realised there must be something serious happening. I decided to make my way home and on my way I met more soldiers loaded in trucks rushing at high speed towards J1. 


The soldiers wearing plain green uniforms were for the first vice president and the others were for Salva Kiir, the president of South Sudan. Both leaders were in J1 for a meeting.


Before I reached home I heard very heavy gunfire behind me. It was the soldiers I had seen at J1. They had opened fire face-to-face and almost all died. There were very few survivors.

A rebel soldier in Touch Riak in 2018, a ‘humanitarian ghost town’ where famine was declared in 2017. Photo: AFP/Getty

The next day the gunfire escalated until it was everywhere in the city. No one went to the markets. They were closed. Hospitals were not functioning any more, only the military hospitals, treating wounded soldiers. The mortuary was full of dead bodies.


After four days of serious gun fighting, Riek Machar left Juba for the second time and war spread all over most of South Sudan. That war killed thousands of citizens. Some died of hunger. There was an economic crisis. Prices rose very high. Things got so tough in the city. Life was threatening with unknown gunmen killing people at night. My life was not safe anymore.


People started running away but the roads were blocked. It was not possible to travel from Juba to my family in Yei. Only the route to Uganda was open. It was under the control of Ugandan soldiers who were keeping it safe for the many Ugandan citizens who lived in South Sudan. I called my wife, Janet, to tell her to make her way from Yei to Uganda and we would meet there. Then I set out on my journey from Juba to Uganda.

On the way to Uganda in 2016. Photo: Malish James

I bought a place in a truck. As we drove out of the city we saw dead bodies by the road side. We moved from village to village but we did not meet any one. All the houses were empty. We were all very afraid, praying to god that we would reach the border and get out and that the soldiers wouldn’t get us. 


Just after one village we were stopped by some soldiers. They checked our vehicle and picked some money out of our pockets and let us go. As we left them we saw dead bodies around the road and some burned out military vehicles with guns on top of them. We were afraid.


When we arrived in a place called Elegu, the United Nations World Food Programme and UNHCR welcomed us. They offered us ready cooked food and gave each of us some biscuits. We were taken for registration then the following morning we boarded a truck to go to Bidibidi Refugee Settlement.

Refugee children from South Sudan stroll through the Bidibidi Resettlement Camp. Photo: AFP/Getty

Each of us was given a piece of land to settle on and food items were given out and some other things and we started clearing the bush around us and put up some structures. The host communities came with lots of oranges for sale. We ended up exchanging flour and beans for oranges. I realised that there was no threat to me here. The UN wouldn’t put us in the wrong place. Life was normal here.


When we were dropped in the bush at Bidibidi I thought about my parents and how the same thing had happened to them. When they had to clear the bush in the Congo I was a child. I did not realise how hard it was for them. As I cleared the ground I thought about how my parents had been refugees and now I was back a refugee. I wondered, when will this stop? 


The International Rescue Committee came looking for community health workers. I was not at home when they came to our house. I was out looking for customers for wooden seats I was making. But in my absence the people from my area elected me to be their Village Health Team representative.

A group of women cooking ahead of the youth conference in the Bidibidi camp. Photo: Malish James

In 2018 the World Food Programme came and put up some adverts for storytelling training to train people to collect stories from the community in Bidibidi. 


We travelled to a hotel called Lokopio in zone 2 of Bidibidi Refugee Settlement where we were given two weeks’ training. The first day of training was an introduction and we were given tips on taking pictures and shooting videos. It seemed as if it was something I already knew but I enjoyed it. The first week our facilitators were a Ugandan female activist and journalist called Rosebell Idaltu Kagumire, and Hugh Rutherford, an Australian photographer and cinematographic activist. I loved their facilitation. They taught us how to write a short story caption and take a good photo and video. 


In two weeks the WFP held an inauguration day. Benson, a song writer and producer from Europe, came to be our special guest to inaugurate us. They issued us our certificates and Gioacchino from the WFP promised us smartphones. The ceremony was live-streamed on Facebook and Hugh told me to stick to storytelling and that I am fit to be a storyteller.

WFP storytellers (Malish is third from right). Photo: WFP/Hugh Rutherford

Straight away I started sharing stories on a Facebook group created for the WFP Storytellers project, called Bidibidi Storytellers. A month later the smartphones arrived and eventually I was given a brand new Samsung Galaxy A5. I made good use of the phone, sharing a lot of refugee stories. I wanted to tell the refugee’s untold stories so that the world will know what it actually means to be a refugee. One day I received a call from BBC London. They interviewed me about life in the camp and asked how I became “the voice of the voiceless”. They asked if they could come to Bidibidi to find some stories with me. Journalists from London were sent and we moved around the settlement capturing refugee stories. I decided to create my own personal Facebook blog called Daily Refugees Stories, where I shared all my posts. 


From 2019 to 2020, I kept on building up my capacity. These things all gave me a platform for my own idea: to open a community-based organisation, the African Youth Network, which focuses on youth unemployment in the settlement. During the Covid-19 pandemic, lots of young people had nothing to do. They would lounge around the settlement, chewing bubble gum with mariungi (a narcotic leaf) and drinking alcohol. My vision is to help create a brighter future for them.


In early 2020, I was invited to attend the World Economic Forum. I spoke on behalf of refugees worldwide, which was a great experience for me. I shared my life experience of being a refugee – I have been wrongly imprisoned, suffered my abusive uncle, been separated from my wife and children. But in telling stories to others I hope I have also inspired.

Marlina, who is blind, is a South Sudanese refugee who lives in Bidibidi camp. Photo: Malish James


At an online event, I gave my opinion about what kind of immediate support refugees need and the importance of food for refugees. Later in the year, I also participated in the World Food Programme’s Nobel Peace Prize celebration – the organisation was awarded the prize in October for highlighting the cyclical relationship of conflict and hunger. I spoke with the movie actor Chiwetel Ejiofor about how conflict affects people globally and what peace means to refugees.


People don’t understand how it is to be a refugee – as world leaders gather for G7 and another World Refugee Day approaches on 20 June, perhaps it is time for the world to hear our voices. Many people don’t understand what conflict feels like. They have just watched it in a movie. Refugees are people who have really experienced it. You leave your country. You run for asylum. You don’t have enough land to cultivate your food like in your homeland. Living in a refugee camp, they find it hard to generate an income. You have no salary. You have no way of making money. But, with support, you can also land on your feet. I’m a living testimony to that.

 

This article was first published in The Independent

 

Learn more about the World Food Programme


View original:  https://www.wfp.org/stories/refugee-day-south-sudan-conflict-hunger-peace-world-food-programme-un


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Sunday, November 05, 2023

South Sudan: These people are eating the unthinkable

NOTE from Sudan Watch Ed: According to this report, parts of South Sudan have been underwater now for 4 years. Other areas, 2 or 3. Some 15% of the country is submerged year-round, as opposed to 5% several years ago.

Also, according to research from Oxfam, humanitarian appeals for extreme weather events have increased eightfold from 20 years ago. And though certain sudden-onset disasters break through with social media pleas and a surge of donations, on balance the world’s most aid-dependent countries wind up as either have-somes or have-almost-nothings. 


“The humanitarian system is not able to keep up,” said Harjeet Singh, the head of global political strategy at Climate Action Network International. “For us, the mind-set had always been, ‘We can do it. We can build resilience.’ But now we see we are failing.”


Read more, and click link below to see this report and its amazing photos. 
 
From The Washington Post
By Chico Harlan
Dated November 2, 2023 at 6:00 a.m. EDT - here is a copy, minus images:

Years into a climate disaster, these people are eating the unthinkable

In South Sudan, war and semi-permanent flooding have left people to scavenge for food, with long-term consequences for their health


Image: A young man unloads a large bag of sorghum at a makeshift port on the exterior of the Bentiu internal displacement camp. The camp sits under the water level, protected only by a massive, rectangular mud dike. (Guy Peterson for The Washington Post)


CHOTYIEL, South Sudan — It was 1 p.m., her children still hadn’t eaten, and every item on Nyaguey Dak Kieth’s “long to-do list” pertained to surviving another day. So Nyaguey grabbed a plastic bucket and an empty sack and set off from her village surrounded by floodwater. Those waters had upended her life, but also provided a food option — not a desirable one, but one of the few left.


Water lilies. They’d been keeping her family alive for two years.


They were bitter. Hard to digest. They required hours of manual labor — cutting, pounding, drying, sifting — just to be made edible. Nyaguey could still remember her initial shock at eating them, figuring they’d be a short-term measure. And now, with the floodwaters holding their ground, she could trace a two-year arc of distress in what the lilies had become: sustenance so vital that people were slogging farther and farther into the waters to find them, before someone else did.


“I can see some lilies here,” another woman told Nyaguey after a group of four had walked 20 minutes out of town, reaching the edge of the waters.


“Not enough,” Nyaguey said, and the group kept moving. “It looks like somebody already collected most of these.”


Climate disasters are often perceived as finite events — with an emergency and a recovery, a beginning and an end. But as these disasters grow in magnitude and frequency, striking poor countries dependent on a stretched humanitarian system, some are no longer just passing crises, but permanent states of being. That dynamic points to the extraordinary stakes in global climate talks, which center on the question of how wealthy nations can foot the bill for climate-related destruction — even when that destruction is chronic.


Image: Nyaguey Dak Kieth wades through the water dragging a bag of lily bulbs. (Guy Peterson for The Washington Post)


Image: The stark frame of Nyaphar Majok, who's in her mid-80s and is the mother of Nyaguey Dak Kieth. (Guy Peterson for The Washington Post)


Image: Freshly picked bulbs. The bulbs require hours of preparation to be made edible. (Guy Peterson for The Washington Post)


In South Sudan, parts of the country have been underwater now for four years. Other areas, two or three. Some 15 percent of the country is submerged year-round, as opposed to 5 percent several years ago.


One extreme season has followed another, with major rainfalls flowing in from countries upstream, such as Uganda and Ethiopia. Over time, the soil below has turned sticky, sealing the waters in place. Subsistence farmers are bracing for the possibility that their land has changed for good — giving way to a new water mass the size of Lake Michigan, with 1 million people displaced because of flooding, their crops destroyed, their cattle now scattered bones.


South Sudan illustrates how even robust investments in relief aid are no match for the cataclysms that climate change, war and corruption have unleashed on many countries. This landlocked nation — which only gained independence from Sudan in 2011 — benefits from more Western funding than its neighbors, with much of it from the United States.


That money allows for day-to-day triage — upholding mud dikes, maintaining city-sized displacement camps, and providing food aid to some but not all who are hungry. But it isn’t enough to help people recover.


The United Nations has been forced to pare back projects aimed at helping communities adapt or become more resilient. Major nations have yet to establish a long-planned international fund aimed at helping countries deal with climate disasters, and once created, it is likely to be too small by multitudes.


Image: Map


South Sudan’s own government, ranked as one of the world’s most corrupt, can’t convince investors to fund its own projects for climate adaptation, which exist by the dozen — but mostly only on paper. The consequence is that Nyaguey, and hundreds of thousands around her, are in the same emergency mode of two years ago. Only weaker, sicker, more tired, more stressed.


“It’s devastating,” she said. “When will this ever end? I am just so, so tired.”


Nyaguey, 43, had been poor, but not desperately poor, before central South Sudan’s inundation. She had been a maize farmer. She had a small disposable income. She bought sugar, coffee, shoes for her 10 children, and had free time to meet with friends, who would sometimes laugh with her until late at night. But her old home is now submerged, and her new home is a makeshift mud hut in one of her county’s only two villages still poking out of the water. She rarely sees her husband, who has two other wives living in different places.


Her entire days are “devoted to the lilies,” she said, and collecting them has proved so punishing — two-hour walks, hours more in the water, lugging them back home — that she’s developed chronic coughs, regular fevers, and found herself many mornings asking if she could bear to return to the water. “As long as my children are alive,” she’s told herself, “I’ll keep going.”


After deciding against the first patch of lilies, Nyaguey and the other women trekked farther away from their village, deeper into an eerie landscape of dragonflies and sickly brittle trees twisting halfway out the floodwaters. For as long as possible, the women tried to keep themselves dry, laboring through a slightly elevated but muddy path. Time in the water meant exposure to poisonous snakes, untold bacteria, and run-ins with submerged thorns. But then there was no choice. After 40 minutes, they saw a patch of lilies, blooming in abundance, in deeper nearby waters.


Nyaguey waded in first.


“Can you stand?” one of the women asked.


The water was chest-high.


“Come in,” Nyaguey told the others, and she opened her bag.


‘Not able to keep up’


The explanation for Nyaguey’s unconventional food staple begins 300 miles away from the flood zone, in a compound in South Sudan’s capital, Juba, where the United Nations’ food agency tracks the money coming in: Compared with what’s been requested, it is less than ever before.


For decades, the world’s humanitarian aid has lagged behind need, which comes primarily from a handful of national donors. But the gap was less dire before Ukraine’s wartime needs siphoned off a portion of aid money, before that war triggered a rise in food prices, and — more broadly — before human-caused pollution accelerated the number of crises. According to research from Oxfam, humanitarian appeals for extreme weather events have increased eightfold from 20 years ago. And though certain sudden-onset disasters break through with social media pleas and a surge of donations, on balance the world’s most aid-dependent countries wind up as either have-somes or have-almost-nothings.


“The humanitarian system is not able to keep up,” said Harjeet Singh, the head of global political strategy at Climate Action Network International. “For us, the mind-set had always been, ‘We can do it. We can build resilience.’ But now we see we are failing.”


By those grim margins, South Sudan is a have-some. It gets more requested aid than Somalia, which is facing its worst drought in decades. It gets far more than Chad, where declining harvests and shrinking water supplies have ignited conflicts. Majority-Christian South Sudan is supported in particular by the United States, which backed its long fight for independence from predominantly Muslim Sudan; since 2011, U.S. administrations have given South Sudan $9 billion in aid. Before a projected dip this year, the aid groups operating in South Sudan had typically received about 70 percent of their requested funding, with the World Food Program (WFP) as the biggest recipient.


But that level, in a country beset with problems even before the flooding, is still dire.


Image: A reinforced dike protects the Bentiu camp as well as the areas around it, including an airstrip. (Guy Peterson for The Washington Post)


Image: Women wait in line at a food distribution center at the Bentiu internal displacement camp. (Guy Peterson for The Washington Post)


Image: A group of houses covered with tarps on a small island of high ground surrounded by floodwater near Bentiu. (Guy Peterson for The Washington Post)


Mary-Ellen McGroarty, WFP director in South Sudan, has been put in the position of choosing which hungry people are offered help. For the last two years, even the hungriest have been given only half-rations. Nyaguey said her family goes through its month’s allotment in five days. While WFP still does carry out some resiliency-building work, it has had to significantly scale back certain programs that could help the country long-term, including one to help farmers plant rice, a crop that needs to be submerged.


“We have all these huge, aspirational goals. But we’re way down here,” McGroarty said, lowering her hand to the floor.


People unsure about their next meal can’t use their energy in other ways that might help them recover, McGroarty said. The half-rations amount to 292 grams about two-thirds of a pound — of cereal per day.


“Have you seen what 200 grams of cereal looks like?” she asked.


South Sudan depends on the “disaster begging bowl,” as Oxfam termed it, because so many earlier catastrophes and blunders prevented any degree of self-sufficiency. Prospects were once bright for this fledgling nation, but rival leaders, representing different ethnic groups, tipped it into several years of civil war, resulting in the deaths of an estimated 400,000 people.


Image:  Men unload 50 kg bags of cereals for distribution at the Bentiu displacement camp. (Guy Peterson for The Washington Post)


Its economy could have boomed with one of the world’s youngest demographics, but most of those young people ended up never regularly attending school. Its government could have capitalized on the combination of oil revenue and fertile land — building roads, shipping food — but elites have instead siphoned off “staggering” sums from public coffers, according to the United Nations, while leaving the country with almost no infrastructure. Flooding has merely intensified a food crisis that had already been among the world’s gravest.


In many of the countries deemed most vulnerable to climate change, violence and corruption are force multipliers. South Sudan says it does have climate plans of its own, and government documents list page after page of priorities that would make for a country with better irrigation, more renewable energy, infrastructure that could better withstand disasters. But the government says more than 90 percent of that funding would need to come from “international investments.” For now, most projects, including those aimed for the short-term, have the same status: “Yet to be implemented.”


“If you say [this work] will cost $100 billion and you have nothing, nothing will happen,” said Lutana Musa, the director general of climate change at South Sudan’s Environment Ministry.


The government’s shortcomings play out in the flood zone, an area where rival factions fought during the civil war, with territory changing hands more than 10 times. Many people, then, took shelter at a displacement camp in Bentiu, a grid of tents holding 120,000 people.


Because of the flooding, managing that camp has required even more resources and aid. The floodwaters have risen higher than the camp’s surface, which is staved off from ruin only because of miles of dikes, built in haste, with a combination of U.N. and South Sudanese money, two years ago. Even one dike failure could inundate the camp in three hours, said Joshua Kanyara, an engineer with the United Nations’ migration agency, whose group helped in the construction.


Some international officials say privately that it makes more sense for the flood zone to be written off, with people encouraged to relocate elsewhere. But the government can’t offer the basics found in the aftermath of other disasters — financial aid or prefab accommodation on higher land. Even if it could, experts say, there is widespread distrust: The regional governor has been accused by the United Nations of authorizing brutal extrajudicial killings. And a labyrinth of ethnic disputes makes people uncertain they’d be safe in a new area.


So, people stay where they are and try to survive.


Image: A World Food Program amphibious vehicle drives on the partially submerged road leading to Chotyiel. (Guy Peterson for The Washington Post)


Where everyone eats the lilies


One of those places is Chotyiel, a village of 5,500 people with no electricity, no running water, no cars, and only one way out: along a mile-long mud bank that leads to a main road. The Post was able to reach the village by embedding with WFP, traveling in all-terrain amphibious vehicles with five-foot-high tires.


In Chotyiel, the closest market is four hours away by canoe. Most people, including Nyaguey, can’t afford boats to fish.


That makes the village a fair place to see what two years of a diet dominated by one food can do to the body.


“Even I eat the water lilies, and I’m in government,” said Kim Kiir, the local administrator.


The people of the flood zone don’t eat the part of the lily visible from the surface — the white flowers and the circular leaves. Instead, they harvest the parts below, reaching into the waters for the bulbs, detaching them from a reptilian network of thick stalks. The seeds of those bulbs, after being sifted and pounded and cooked over the flame, yield a greenish porridge. It’s high in protein. Many say a little milk can leaven the harsh taste.


The floods have brought so many new stresses to Chotyiel that it’s hard to attribute a spate of sicknesses to any one factor. But officials in the village say the wrenching diet is a major contributor, as are the risks lily collectors face in the water. Several women have died of snakebites. Children regularly deal with severe constipation, and with their immune systems weakened, they and other villagers have also experienced a surge in diarrheal sicknesses. The village used to see one person per month die on average; now it’s three to five. In the week The Post visited Chotyiel, three children died.


“We are very, very vulnerable,” said Reik Chatiem, the deputy administrator for the county.


Image: Nyaguey suggests an area for picking lilies. (Guy Peterson for The Washington Post)


Image: Water lily bulbs cut in half sit on the floor of Nyaguey's mud hut in Chotyiel. (Guy Peterson for The Washington Post)


Image: Nyaphar Majok, mother of Nyaguey, spreads seeds taken from the bulbs of water lilies outside the mud hut where the family lives. (Guy Peterson for The Washington Post)


Across the flood zone, the number of people who are critically malnourished has increased dramatically over the last few years, according to data used by WFP.


Mamman Mustapha, head of mission for Doctors Without Borders in South Sudan, said there are compounding factors, beyond diet, that explain why. With so much land submerged, people are crammed closer together, allowing diseases to spread more easily. Some of the facilities where people used to seek care are underwater. At the same time, their challenges in finding adequate food have left many, particularly children, more vulnerable to infectious diseases.


“So you see how the dots connect,” he said.


Water lilies are a plant, not a base for a diet.


“It’s inadequate by itself,” he said.


Image: Seeds taken from the bulbs of water lilies are laid out in the sun to dry. (Guy Peterson for The Washington Post)


The climate connection


Because the waters surrounding Chotyiel are neither draining readily into the ground nor flowing elsewhere, the only cure for the flooding is evaporation and time. The country would need three or four consecutive relatively dry years to reclaim its submerged land, said Richard Aludra, a water specialist at the Dutch Embassy in Juba.


That doesn’t appear likely to happen.


South Sudan’s central flatland — low-lying, at the crossroads of waterways — acts as a catch basin for extreme events happening in other countries, and it had always seen seasonal flooding. But over the last few years, those extreme events have happened in closer succession, with water rushing in so steadily that it’s broken the seasonal patterns.


The rainfall across East Africa is determined primarily by the ebb and flow of Indian and Pacific Ocean temperature patterns. Chris Funk, who runs the Climate Hazards Center at the University of California Santa Barbara, said that the volatility of the ocean has been supercharged, becoming hotter after having absorbed much of the excess energy caused by human emissions — equivalent to millions of underwater atomic bomb detonations over the last decade alone. Funk devoted a chapter of his 2021 book to the mega-rain event that jump-started flooding in South Sudan, saying that climate change “almost certainly” increased its magnitude.


“And if climate change contributed, it means it’ll happen again soon,” Funk said in an interview.


But while South Sudan’s future hinges on a contest between rainfall and evaporation, the country is way behind in trying to understand what might come next and how to defend itself.


Image: A boy paddles a canoe constructed out of plastic from a water container at an informal dock by a large dam protecting the Bentiu internal displacement camp from the floodwaters. Fishing makes up a part of the local economy with so much else having been lost. (Guy Peterson for The Washington Post)


Image: A dead catfish lies in a large pile of thousands of dry scales near a makeshift market where fish are bought, scaled and gutted after being sold in Bentiu. (Guy Peterson for The Washington Post)


Image: Cow skulls and bone fragments are commonly seen in grassy areas sticking out of the flood zone. Scores of animals drowned because of the flooding or died because of food shortages in the aftermath. (Guy Peterson for The Washington Post)


South Sudan’s national meteorological department is supposed to provide early warnings as a way to prepare for and reduce the scale of disasters. But the meteorologists there have no instruments for measuring wind speed, a critical factor in making weather forecasts. Many of the computers in a crammed office at Juba’s airport are wrapped in dusty plastic, and employees said they focus mainly on tracking the hourly conditions for the planes landing and taking off. The office is supposed to issue daily public weather bulletins, but it does not; one employee explained that the pay is low and so is the motivation.


“So many challenges,” said Mojwok Ogawi Modo, who runs the department. “They are huge.”


The information at their hands comes mostly from elsewhere — including WFP, which tracks climate patterns, as well as a Kenya-based regional climate center, which provides reports forecasting three months in advance. The forecaster, citing the ongoing El Niño event, recently predicted “abundant rainfall” over almost all of East Africa between October and December, with more flooding for South Sudan.


Funk, who tracks oceanic temperatures as well, also expects a surge in rainfall in East Africa. Because the oceanic patterns are slow-moving, they are also predictable, he said, and they can be used to mitigate famines and food shocks. He works closely with governments in Ethiopia and Kenya. But in South Sudan, he doesn’t know who to call.


South Sudan has taken some recent steps to set up a functional early warning system for climate events, receiving U.N.-led trainings, and distributing 20 tablets to local officials for weather monitoring, but the initiative is still at the beginning stages. Musa, the climate director at South Sudan’s Environment Ministry, said a better national early warning system could give South Sudan autonomy, and help yield localized data. That could help with village-by-village decisions about what crops to plant. About whether to raise dikes.


About whether to stay or leave.


In Chotyiel, Reik said the town never hears from the government, though he did hear secondhand about a U.N. report predicting increasing rain in the second half of the year. Mostly, he said, people in the village rely on traditional methods to predict the weather.


They track bird behavior.


They listen for a frog species whose sound changes based on conditions.


And they look to the sky.


The 100-pound harvest


Nyaguey had only been in the water for a minute, grabbing the first bulbs, moving barefoot in the water, when a fisherman emerged in a wooden canoe.


“Do you happen to have any shoes?” she asked him. “Right now thorns are pricking my feet.”


He said he didn’t. He paused to talk, flies buzzing around the eight or nine fish in his boat, and Nyaguey noticed his catch.


“What about passing me one of those fish?” she asked.


“I can’t,” he said. “I’m sorry. My children really have nothing to eat.”


But he did say that a richer patch of lilies were up ahead. The women, wading carefully through the water, followed his advice.


They arrived at an area with lily pads the size of dinner plates, surrounded by the desiccated trees, their branches collapsing into the water. The floodwaters here were slightly shallower, waist-high, but Nyaguey and the others worked from a crouch, keeping their arms below the water, fighting to break the apple-sized bulbs from the stems. Nyaguey had honed her technique. Snap. Into the bucket. Snap. Into the bucket.


The women had started close together, chatting a bit, but they fanned out over several hundred feet, each operating in silence, other than the dragonflies. Snap. Snap. They worked for an hour, then two. The day went from hot to overcast to windy. Snap. Snap. Nyaguey’s bucket, floating on the water, filled with the greenish bulbs, and she dragged it with her from one lily patch to the next.


She’d have more than 100 pounds by the time she was done.


Nyaguey said the load would be too heavy to transport on the muddy path back to town. So instead she’d wade back through the floodwaters, letting the bucket float behind her, trying not to get lost. But then the floodwaters would end and there’d still be another quarter-mile on foot.


By then, she’d have been at work for hours. Her feet would be shriveled. She’d be exhausted. She’d lug the lilies back anyway she could.


Then it would be time to cook dinner.


Image:  A submerged sign for the Chotyiel health and nutrition center sits where dry land once stood. (Guy Peterson for The Washington Post)


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View original with photos and comments: https://www.washingtonpost.com/climate-environment/2023/11/02/south-sudan-climate-floods-war/


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